They cost about $15 for a pack of two, but the are really nice protectors. They are really clear pieces of plastic and I couldn’t see any negative impact after applying it. They are hard and have about the same amount of slickness as the screen’s glass. Fingerprints clean off real easy.

There are a bunch of different listings on Amazon so check out this search page for the cheapest in stock offerings: Search for Seidio Ultimate Screen Guard Protector. I ordered mine off this listing for less than the going rate.

The Diztronic Matte Back Translucent Smoke Flexible *Revision 3* TPU Case was exactly what I was looking for and only $9 to boot.

Available at Amazon for $9

Looks: I went with the translucent Smoke colored case so you could still see the Google logo on the back and it is fairly close to the color of the back and side panels. I think it looks great and the solid black case would probably look just as good.

Grip: I can actually use the Galaxy Nexus one handed now without risking a drop. The sides of the phone are fairly slick and had it almost slip from my hands a few times in the first week. The rubber on the case definitely adds grip and just gives you a more solid hold on the phone.

Pocketability: The case does not add very much bulk and it still fits nicely in a front pocket. The GN is pretty thin to begin with so I didn’t mind a bit of thickness added to it.

Protection: The case creates a little lip around the edge of the screen which helps keep it safe when placed face down on a surface. In a fall it should help protect from damage, but I wouldn’t trust any case to fully protect a phone from a hard fall.

Verdict: Buy it. If you are looking for a case for your Galaxy Nexus I highly this Diztronic which is a steal for $9.

I was getting fed up with not being comfortable and having a hard time getting to sleep so I started doing some research and browsing on Amazon. A couple years ago I bought a 1″ latex mattress topper that we are really happy with so I started looking at latex and memory foam. Latex isn’t as popular as memory foam, but it is springier with different levels of firmness/density. Memory foam seems to be either soft where you sink right into it (leading to complains about it sleeping hot) or too firm and it just feels like hard foam. This turned me off from a lot of memory foam pillows and I had already ruled out polyester fill and down.

My research eventually led to a line of pillows from a company called Malouf. They have a couple different pillows using latex and memory foam, but one really stood out that looked like it would solve my aching ear problem: the Malouf Zoned Dough Memory Foam Pillow.

I was a little reluctant to spend more money on a pillow I couldn’t touch and see in the store, but doing that in the past hasn’t done me any good so I pulled the trigger on a King low loft firm dough pillow. It came in a massive box (seriously Amazon), but right away I knew I was going to like it.

The foam itself feels like a cross between memory foam and latex. From here on out I will just refer to it as “the dough”. You sink into the dough, but it is still fairly firm and supportive. And even though it feels firm it is still one of the softest pillows I’ve used. It is actually kind of a strange feeling at first. The zoning and ventilation probably play into this great feeling. The edge has smaller holes that provide more support for your neck while the middle has larger holes that adds the softness on your head. The result has been a very supportive and comfortable sleep.

Fast forward a month and my wife has stolen the first dough pillow. I went back to order another one and decided to try the high loft firm model. My pillows have always seemed to be a bit too short which made my spine feel like it was just slightly out of alignment (or I would compensate by laying on my side a little crooked). The high loft is definitely higher and turned out to be just right. It took about a week to get use to, but I feel like my neck is straight and supported better.

Low loft vs high loft, firm vs plush

If you are a back sleeper, have a smaller body type or have a really soft bed then the low loft is probably the better height. If you already sleep with a really high pillow (or multiple), have a bigger body type or firm bed then the high loft might be a better fit. Smaller woman might have a tough time with the high loft either way.

Both pillows I bought were the firm so I can’t compare it to the plush. Amazon reviews seem to be all over the place on the differences. The one thing I know is if my high loft pillow was any softer and I sunk down further then it might actually obstruct my breathing little. So until I get my head on one of the plush models I can’t honestly compare them. To be safe I just suggest the firm.

Amazon seems to be the only place carrying these pillows at a reasonable price.

• Queen Low Loft/Firm – $39.99
• Queen High Loft/Firm – $34.99
• King Low Loft/Firm – $44.99
• King High Loft/Firm – $49.99

I really can’t recommend these pillows enough. The extra cost should be offset by their longer life and getting better sleep. One hint: take the pillow out of the cover for a few days to air out as it does have a slight smell right out of the box. It didn’t bother me at all, but the wife was a little more sensitive to it.

Compact Point and Shoot Under $200

This is the most crowded camera category and there’s been a lot of convergence over the years with cheaper cameras. Good cameras in this price range are going to be more alike than they are different. The biggest change here has been the inclusion of wider angle lenses. In the past most compact point and shoots started at 35mm, but now 24mm and 28mm is much more common. These wider angles are very useful and arguably more important than a really long zoom in most situations.

Canon PowerShot ELPH 300 HS | Amazon – $174 | B&H Photo – $177

The Canon 300 HS is a nice little camera with a good set of features. It’s small, has one of the newer CMOS sensors, 24mm wide angle and fairly quick f/2.7 aperture at the wide end. All of my point and shoots have been Canon PowerShots (S400 about 8 years ago and S700 4 years ago) and they are just solid cameras for the money.

Canon PowerShot ELPH 100 HS | Amazon – $130 | B&H Photo – $139

The 100 HS is very similar to its 300 HS sibling if price is really an issue. You lose a few bells and whistles like a smaller zoom range and being able to optically zoom during video. There might be cheaper cameras, but quality really starts to drop off if you go too much cheaper than this.

Compact Point and Shoot Over $200

The under $200 crowd are fairly similar. As you look at cameras over $200 you start to see more variation and better features. Along with the wider angles being offered really fast f/1.8 apertures are becoming the new must have feature. These faster lenses let in more light resulting in faster shutter speeds and less reliance on high ISO. Anything that keeps the ISO lower on a point and shoot is a very good thing.

Nikon Coolpix P300 | Amazon – $277 | B&H Photo – $245

This is the main camera I’m going to recommend in this category. For normal day to day use there really isn’t anything like it. It starts at 24mm wide and has a very fast f/1.8 lens at that widest focal length. I recommended this camera for my sister after quite a bit of research and it has turned out to be fantastic. If I was in the market for a new point and shoot (I shoot my Nikon D90 almost exclusively) this is the camera I would get. That f/1.8 aperture is something only us DSLR shooters got to enjoy, but Nikon has pushed it down to point and shoot cameras at a reasonable price. This is just about the only P&S camera I can get excited about and it is reasonably priced.

Nikon Coolpix S9100 | Amazon – $239 | B&H Photo – $239

If you need more zoom and are willing to trade it for the fast f/1.8 of the P300 then the Nikon S9100 offers a good set of features for the money. It packs a big zoom range in a small package compared to the “superzoom” point and shoots that are roughly the size of a small DSLR (and not much cheaper).

DSLR Recommendations

Point and shoots are great for pocketability, but it is very hard to match the capabilities of a DSLR. Over the years the price of low end DSLRs has dropped considerably and aren’t much more than a high-end P&S. If you are outgrowing your P&S or want to upgrade an older model then see my recommendation.

Brand Loyalty

If you already have a DSLR and bought nice lenses to go with it then just look at the newest model from the manufacturer. If you never bought other lenses and just have the kit lens that came with your first DSLR then you don’t really have an investment keeping you with one brand or another. I’m a Nikon guy and really like their stuff but you can also check stuff out for Canon, Sony, Panasonic or Pentax.

Nikon D3100 DSLR | Amazon – $549 | B&H Photo – $546

The D3100 is just an incredible little (for a DSLR) camera for the money. Canon is very competitive with Nikon, but right now the two things that make me lean towards Nikon is their flash system and the $200 Nikon 35mm f/1.8. I suggested this setup to my brother and his results are just as good as my D90 and miles ahead of his old D40.

Nikon D7000 DSLR | Amazon – $1399

If you’re looking for one of the best cameras out there without completely breaking the bank then the D7000 is the ticket. This thing is a beast and nothing can really beat its bang-for-buck right now. If my D90 ever craps out or I felt the need to upgrade then I’d be looking at the D7o00.

Why VigLink?

The main reason you might be looking at VigLink is because Amazon has dropped you from their affiliate program. If you have a large pool of established links to Amazon then it probably isn’t practical to try and reroute those to different affiliate programs who may or may not be dropping affiliates for the same reason as Amazon. VigLink gives us a second chance to get back in the game and not worry about the future.

The other big plus is the broad coverage of affiliate programs makes it easier to link to other sites besides Amazon. VigLink covers about 12,000 sites and you can check coverage through their backend site. I know when I was in Associates I pretty much only linked to Amazon. Now I’m starting to link to other sites and present some price comparisons to give readers some additional links to explore.

How big of a cut does VigLink take?

VigLink takes 25% off the top. Might seem like a lot, but they also have the ability to reach higher affiliate tiers because they funnel referrals through a single account. On Amazon I would barely get into the 2nd or 3rd rate tier, but now I’m pretty much guaranteed to get the top rate. So the 25% commission definitely eats into our share, but it is potentially offset by higher payouts. For those of us dropped by Amazon, 75% is much better than 0%.

Implementing VigLink and How It Works

You install VigLink by dropping a bit of JavaScript into the template of your site. This code writes out a <script> tag that links to the JavaScript file on VigLink’s server. Their code is obfuscated so I can only guess that it goes through all external links on a page and adds an OnClick event to each one. When a link is clicked it transparently redirects it to their system to record the click, add on the needed affiliate info and then redirect the user to the modified link.

The plus side to this implementation is that links appear to be unaffiliated to the reader. This also makes it much easier to add links to posts without having to worry that it is properly formatted for a given affiliate program.

AdBlock Strikes Back

If users have JavaScript disabled then obviously none of this works, but that’s fairly rare as far as I’m concerned. What’s not so rare are readers who use the AdBlock browser extension. I use it to help keep popovers and banner ads under control; things that are just out right annoying. The AdBlock Plus filter subscription blocks the retrieval of VigLink’s JavaScript file which prevents links from being affiliated. I have no idea what percentage of people use filtering extensions like AdBlock, but it hurts knowing you might be leaving money on the table from those uncounted clicks.

I implemented a workaround that lets me serve the VigLink JavaScript from my own domain which avoids it being matched to a blacklist. You can read more about that on this post: Make VigLink Work with AdBlock Plus and Other Ad Blocking Software.

Take VigLink for a spin and see how it works for you

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The process goes something like this:

1. Create PHP or any server-side script that pulls the JavaScript file from VigLink and writes the contents to a .js file
2. Create cronjob to run that script every night in case VigLink pushes out an update
3. Remove the part of the original VigLink snippet that writes out the <script> include, leaving the API URL and key values
4. Add a <script> tag with the src pointing at the .js file created in step 1

Browsers with AdBlock Plus will now happily pull the JavaScript file from your server because you aren’t on the blacklist (if you are then good luck with that). I’ve left out details because there are so many variables. If you want some help implementing this on your site then send a donation my way or buy something at Amazon (you should see VigLink’s tag as a test of this workaround) and then contact me.

I’d probably have to read the book again and keep notes to really talk intelligently about what Hayek is saying. Even after a casual read I feel that I gained a better understanding about the reasoning behind my economic and political philosophy. It seems the best way to get smarter is by reading what really smart people have to say. I would only recommend reading the book if you have a preexisting interest in economics and politics. If you have heard about John Maynard Keynes and Keynesian economics and always wondered if there was an opposite view then this is your book.

Even if you don’t have enough interest to read a book like The Road to Serfdom I highly recommend the following two videos. You don’t have to be an economics nerd to recognize the opposing views and decide which approach is predominately used in government today. The next question to ask is whether that approach is working and what effect it has on the individual. This isn’t really a moral debate so you can’t really say one is wrong or right, but there are definitely different consequences.

Keynes vs Hayek Round 1

Keynes vs Hayek Round 2

Gov. Brown signed the Internet Sales tax law and Amazon promptly dropped tens of thousands of Associates in a heartbeat. The state still doesn’t get their sales tax and now are missing out on the combined loss of income taxes from affiliates and their reduced spending. The state loses and so do we. We knew this was coming and I had briefly looked into creating an LLC in another state, but it would be a hassle and there was a question of California charging a $800 out of state business fee. Jumping through hoops wasn’t really my idea of fun so I looked around for another solution. My first thought was auctioning off my affiliate links to the highest bidder. I could probably get a little buzz going about that, but didn’t want to mess with that arrangement with some stranger. I did a little more research and found some discussion about VigLink.

VigLink essentially rewrites your links with JavaScript to be routed through their system. Any earnings are tracked back to your ID and then they pay you after taking a commission. For those of us in states that are now locked out of Amazon Associates this is better than nothing. I signed up the other day and will have to see how things go. The commission takes a little bit off the top, but since VigLink funnels clicks through their own accounts they get to the higher tiers which could help make up for it. If your Amazon links are producing $0 then try VigLink at least until you can get something else going.

An additional minus point is that users of AdBlock Plus will probably not have their click-throughs converted. One more plus though is that you aren’t stuck just with Amazon. If you wanted to post to other sites or do a price comparison between different sites then you can still participate in other programs easily. I think VigLink has over 12,000 sites they cover.

Price Comparison as of 08/06/11 from reputable dealers:

• Amazon – $800 free shipping
• B&H Photo – $800 free shipping
• Adorama – $800 free shipping
• Best Buy – $800 free shipping

Rundown of the key changes from the D5000:

• 16.2 MP sensor (vs 12.3 MP)
• 1080p video at 24/25/30 fps (vs 720p24)
• H.264/AVC codec (vs Motion JPEG, big improvement)
• 3″ 921k pixel LCD (vs 2.7″ 230k pixel)
• LCD hinge on left of body (vs bottom edge)
• 14-bit processing (vs 12-bit)
• Default to ISO 100 (vs ISO 200)
• Autofocus during video
• Stereo microphone input
• Dual IR sensors (no reaching around to the front)
• Live view switch and record button moved to top
• Slightly smaller and lighter

The improvements to video and the higher resolution LCD are nice upgrades. The sensor is likely the same or very close to that of the D7000 which means it will produce very nice images with great high ISO performance.

If your budget for a camera is under $1000 then the main deciding factor between the D5100 and D3100 will be the video. If you aren’t going to use video then the D5100 might not be worth the extra $300.

The D5100 is competitively priced at Amazon:

• Kit with 18-55mm 3.5-5.6 VR lens
• Body only
• ME-1 stereo microphone

Earth is at war with an alien planet on the far side of the galaxy. Neither of us have the technology to actually transport living troops to each others planet so the war is waged by lobbing stuff across the vast emptiness of space. Besides kinetic projectiles we are both attempting to infect each other with disease.

One biological attack from the aliens is particularly effective and spreads unchecked across the globe; zombie apocalypse becomes reality. Humanity breaks down and is reduced to ragged bands of survivors. I am part of a well armed group whose sole purpose is to help those who have succumbed to the disease. We do not know what condition the infection leaves the human mind in, but we won’t allow fellow humans to persist in that irreversible state.

I am armed with a M1 Garand rifle chambered in the stout .30-06 cartridge. My team members handle nearby zombies with ease, but I am more selective with my targets. I increase the challenge of our job by dispatching zombies two at a time. I take the old sharpshooter “one shot, one kill” adage and kick it up a notch: “one shot, two kills”.

From a well supported position I silently peer through my iron sights at a group of zombies down the road. Their meandering movement is slow and random when they are unaware of living flesh, but becomes frantic once they lock onto our sweet scent. As the group shuffles about I mentally calculate their trajectories and wait for that moment where one zombie head passes behind another. I notice two infected on opposite sides of the street moving towards the center turn lane. Experience and instinct direct my aim to an empty spot between them.

A minute passes while the zombies steadily approach each other. In my peripheral vision I see the zombies disappear behind the rear aperture of my sight. I know in the next moment they will reappear inside the aperture and I will have the briefest moment to deliver my shot. The zombies emerge inside the aperture and their bodies become obscured by the front post. I slowly release my breath as one starts to pass behind the other and the next instant I squeeze the trigger. My round passes through both zombies’ skulls, releasing whatever is left of their imprisoned and tormented minds.

At about this time alien landing pods containing small combat robots start landing around us, but I woke up so that’s all you get. I blame this dream on science fiction books, Left 4 Dead, Monster Hunter International, sniper books and recently shooting my M1.